Explore Quebec’s Riverside Adventure Hub 

Don’t overlook one of Canada’s best natural overlooks. Just an hour’s drive northeast from Quebec City along the St. Lawrence River, the Laurentian Mountains rise dramatically from the water’s edge. There, the village of Petite-Rivière-Saint-François provides a gateway to the deeper Charlevoix region, designated as a UNESCO biosphere reserve for rich ecosystems that vary from coastal marshes to boreal forests. But adventure travelers will turn their immediate attention to Le Massif de Charlevoix, a resort packed with terrain surprises and stunning panoramic views, not to mention the highest vertical drop (2,526 feet) east of the Canadian Rockies, plus one of the largest annual snowfall totals (over 21 feet).

Dominique Maltais certainly benefitted from growing up with this massive (11,367 acres) playground as her backyard, “since the first day the ski lift was installed.” Maltais translated the resort’s steepest terrain into speed for snowboard-cross competitions—winning a bronze medal at the 2006 Turin Olympics and a silver medal at the 2014 Sochi Olympics. After dominating the World Cup circuit and earning multiple titles, she cemented her legacy as one of the sport’s most successful athletes—though she is quick to credit her upbringing in a special corner of the north that she’s eager to share with other outdoor adventurers.

Outside: What’s your favorite memory of riding at Le Massif de Charlevoix?

Dominique Maltais: On storm days, holidays, and even on the official opening day, my parents allowed me to skip school to enjoy the first snow-covered slopes. Many kids from the village were there, skiing or snowboarding. At that time, snowboarding was not very popular, but I was one of the first in my village to have a complete snowboard setup. I even remember hiding our lunches in the forest under the snow so we could eat there at noon after a few morning runs. My passion grew year after year, and even at a young age, [Le Massif] already played an important role in my life.

With the resort now joining the Ikon Pass, what characteristics make Le Massif de Charlevoix stand out most?

Its breathtaking location right on the edge of the St. Lawrence River! Skiing down while feeling like you’re heading straight toward the water is a one-of-a-kind experience. The mountain also offers a wide variety of glades, giving skiers a natural and playful ride through the forest. Another highlight is Camp Boule buvette de montagne, a mountaintop restaurant where local gastronomy meets a cozy atmosphere. It’s the perfect spot to enjoy a refined meal while taking in panoramic views of the river and surrounding peaks. Altogether, it makes for a very different experience than the Rockies—more intimate, yet just as memorable

And where’s the best lodging options in relation to the ski hill?

Le Massif offers a wide range of lodging options. Having once owned a chalet at the summit, I have a special preference for the accommodations in that area. They are tucked away in the forest, offering incredible peace and quiet. Plus, being right at the top means that after a snowstorm, you can step outside and be on the first tracks within minutes. At the base, there are also convenient lodging options and a lively atmosphere with winter events, along with some favorite après-ski stops where you can relax and enjoy the friendly vibe.

We also heard there’s Canada’s first Club Med resort on the slopes? How does it add to experience?

Le Massif is home to the very first Club Med resort in Canada, located right at the base of the slopes. It’s a huge plus, offering an all-inclusive experience—lodging, dining, and activities—that appeals to both families and international visitors. The food highlights local Charlevoix flavors, and the staff is truly outstanding, always warm and attentive. I’m lucky to live just a few minutes away and to enjoy it with my kids a few times each year. It’s always a winning family experience that perfectly complements the unique vibe of Le Massif.

What about options outside of Le Massif?

Beyond the other hotels and inns in the village center, most of which are near the St. Lawrence River, there are some really unique lodging options that add to the overall experience. Momentôm Refuges Nature offers a full immersion in the forest—quiet, intimate, and perfect for disconnecting after a day on the slopes. Dômes Charlevoix on the other hand, provides a modern glamping experience with spectacular views of the St. Lawrence River. Both combine comfort with originality and truly highlight the natural beauty of the Charlevoix region. For anyone looking for something different from a traditional hotel, they are outstanding choices.

Do you have any favorite snowshoe and cross-country ski trails to take in those panoramic riverside views?

Without a doubt the Sentiers des Caps de Charlevoix. The trails feature beautifully maintained cross-country tracks in a truly unique setting, winding through dense forest with spectacular lookouts over the St. Lawrence River. For a former athlete like me, it’s also the perfect place to maintain strong cardio fitness during the winter season while combining training with the pure joy of being outdoors. It’s an experience that perfectly complements alpine skiing at Le Massif.

And is the village of Petite-Rivière-Saint-François worth exploring?

Absolutely. It’s an authentic place, nestled between the mountains and the St. Lawrence River, with a truly unique natural charm. Visitors can discover its rich heritage, picturesque scenery, and a warm, welcoming community. The most iconic and popular spot is without a doubt the end of the pier, where you can enjoy incredible sunrises, take in the immensity of the mountains and the river, and watch ships pass by. It’s a must-see, whether in summer or winter. The village is also connected by a bike path that runs along the shoreline, making it a great way to explore the area with family or friends. For outdoor lovers, it’s also the perfect starting point to discover the shoreline, the trails, and of course, direct access to Le Massif. This blend of history, culture, and nature makes Petite-Rivière a true reflection of the Charlevoix spirit.

Any personal favorite stops that you’d recommend?

One of the best experiences is taking the train from Petite-Rivière-Saint-François to visit Baie-Saint-Paul. The ride itself is beautiful, and it’s a unique way to discover the scenery. Once there, Saint-Jean-Baptiste Street is full of small shops, art galleries, and cozy cafés—it’s the perfect place for a stroll after a day outdoors. I also love Isle-aux-Coudres, accessible by a free ferry. Beyond its maritime landscapes and the cycling path that circles the island, it’s also an amazing spot for kiteboarding, with the St. Lawrence River offering ideal wind and water conditions.

What draws you back in the summer when the seasons change?  

What brings me back in the summer are, above all, my roots and my family, which are deeply tied to Petite-Rivière-Saint-François. It’s where I truly feel at home, in a community with a strong sense of fraternity and warmth. There’s direct access to the bike trails in summer and the ski slopes in winter, which makes an active lifestyle both easy and natural. The St. Lawrence River adds a unique energy to everyday life—its view changes almost daily, offering a living, ever-changing spectacle. I also love the Parc des Riverains, a gathering place where activities are held and where families and children love to spend time. It’s really my roots, the people, the nature, and the river’s energy that always draw me back to Petite-Rivière.

Nestled along a narrow 6 km stretch of the St. Lawrence River shoreline, the village of Petite-Rivière-Saint-François showcases nature at its purest. From vast forests to steep summits, including the tourist and recreational mountain at Le Massif de Charlevoix, the gorgeous views will leave you awestruck. It’s the perfect way to be introduced to the splendor of the region.