Once Guarded by Ancient Cloud Warriors, Kuélap Fortress Is Now Considered the Machu Picchu of Peru’s North

Chachapoyas means “cloud forest” or “people of the clouds.” It refers to a pre-Incan civilization found in northern Peru. And when you’re standing atop the ancient Kuélap Fortress—at an elevation of roughly 10,500 feet—it’s easy to see where the term comes from.

I grew up on movie series like Indiana Jones and The Mummy, and my travel itineraries often include high-adventure adrenaline rushes, such as multiday whitewater river trips or visits to haunted catacombs. All that Kuélap has to offer, namely a steep hike paired with a rich pre-Incan history and familial tombs, piqued my type two adventure senses.

Here’s why I think Kuélap belongs on your adventure travel bucket list.

The History of Kuélap Rivals Macchu Picchu

Known as the Machu Picchu of the North, Kuélap is a massive pre-Inca fortified citadel built by the Chachapoyas people. Kuélap rivals Machu Picchu in size and impressiveness. But the ancient fortress provides a quieter, more intimate experience. And it’s only just now beginning to open up to the world.

Until recently, the only way to reach Kuélap was on foot. In 2017, Peru launched its first cable car system, offering easy access to the fortress. Today, it can be accessed by a 20-minute cable car ride from the small town of Tingo Nuevo, located about an hour by private bus from the northern city of Chachapoyas.

The cable car spans more than two miles and climbs 2,000 feet to the base of Kuélap, providing views of quilt-patterned high-altitude farmland and zigzagging ancient foot trails leading up to the summit.

From the cable car station, you can then access the fortress by horseback or on a 30-minute hike. But come rested and prepared: the hike begins at about 10,300 feet and peaks at around 10,500 feet.

Kuélap is arguably one of the most impressive pre-Columbian archaeological complexes in all of South America. Plus, it doesn’t have the crowds of Machu Picchu, which have threatened the iconic wonder.

My guide, Christian Chuquival, studied tourism at the University of Chachapoyas and is an expert in ancient Peruvian history. As we walked among the millennia-old remains of a once-thriving civilization, he spoke of fables, folklore, and fairy tales that have shaped the history of this enigmatic fortress. Most of the site was built between 900 and 1100, though some evidence suggests people have inhabited the area since the sixth century.

“China wasn’t built in a year,” joked Chuquival.

At its peak during the Chachapoyan rule, the fortress housed between 3,000 and 6,000 people, and another 10,000 lived in the surrounding areas.

Chachapoyan culture flourished before the Inca Empire conquered the region in 1470, but little is known about their lives because the group didn’t leave written records of chronicles. Much of what is known about the Chachapoya was recorded by Spanish conquerors.

Throughout the fortress are signs of transitional governance. The Chachapoya built circular structures to reflect the surrounding natural environment and protect against erosion, and today, there are more than 400 structures still somewhat intact. Square and rectangular structures built throughout Kuélap evidence Incan rule, a society that designed its urban areas in a grid-like system.

Most interesting to me was a guinea pig run built into the main living area of each home. Guinea pig has been a popular dish in Peruvian culture for thousands of years—and yes, I tried a fried “chicken of the mountain” during my monthlong visit.

Between three and six family members lived in each ten-foot-wide home, which also included a sleeping area and a mortar-and-pestle kitchen. Each home also featured a small hole in the ground, a burial chamber where family members were entombed alongside the living.

“Imagine living with your mother-in-law forever,” Chuquival laughed to me. He described to me the various decorative carvings found on many of the walls designed in zig-zagging patterns, a hallmark of Chachapoya architecture. These represent the eyes of the puma, snakes, birds, and other gods of the Chachapoyas.

Historians think that Kuélap was both a ceremonial and protected urban center, its walls serving to protect its inhabitants and intimidate enemies. The fortress is only accessible through three entrances, all of which are narrow and highly defensible. A 60-foot wall wraps around the entire 14-acre settlement, its high elevation offering 360-degree views of the surrounding Andean mountains. Paired with his militaristic character are the cloud forest, orchids, and bromeliads adorning the walkways and dangling from the treetops.

With the mist dancing on my hair and the sun pouring through the trees, I could see why the Chachapoya were considered cloud warriors. Kuélap offers a 360-degree view of the surrounding Peruvian Andes. I was left feeling both on top of the world, and also small—I am but one tiny role in the expansive history of humanity.

And because so little is known about this under-visited wonder, mostly, I was left with an overwhelming sense of mystery.

Travel Tips

• Where I stayed: I spent a comfortable night, complete with a hot shower and a full breakfast, at Hotel La Casa de los Balcones in Chachapoyas. It’s located near the central town square and has one of the most comfortable beds I slept on during my month-long trip to Peru.
• Where to eat: I stopped at El Batan, a restaurant featuring a menu full of fanciful takes on Peruvian classics, like an ant-draped cocktail, burro fettuccini, and fried guinea pig.  
• Closest airport: The easiest way to reach Chachapoyas is to fly from Lima on Atsa Airlines. The plane ticket cost me around $150 one-way and took just over an hour.
• Alternative routes: For a more authentic experience, you can also take a 24-hour bus ride from Lima to Chachapoyas for roughly $50. First-class tickets include a reclining chair and WiFi.
• Guide company: To get the most bang for your buck, use a tour company to organize your trip. I used Chachapoyas Travel, who were easy to reach via WhatsApp and picked me up from my hotel. The trip also included an English-speaking guide and lunch service.